Sunday, October 11, 2015

Anatomy: Isolated Muscles of the Trunk - In The Round

Work in progress...

Another post regarding anatomy here so I will be brief. You see below Posterior, anterior and lateral views of the skeleton.  The muscles will be laid starting with a few deep layer muscles outward to the top layer muscles.  In lieu of time and space, the number of muscles are limited, but for figure drawing purposes these should get you moving forward. 

Shown below; Pectoralis Minor (green): origin; rib 3-5, insertion coracoid process of scapula. Pulls scapula (shoulder) forward toward the anterior chest.
Also shown Sternocleidomastoid (teal): origin; clavicle and manubrium, insertion mastoid process. Pulls skull toward chest also turns skull left or right.
Erector Spinae (light green) reefers to a group of muscles that run along the spinal column including the Sacrospinalis and holds the body erect.  Origin; sacrum, lumbar and lower portion of thoracic spine. Insertion; ribs, upper thoracic spine, cervical spine and skull. Keeps torso erect in standing position, pulls rib cage upright from bent over position, also aids in twisting the torso.
Rhomboid Major and Minor (light orange): Origin; Thoracic spine vertebrae 2-5, insertion; vertebral border of scapula. Pulls scapula back and rotates it upward medially.
Infraspinatus (dark orange), Teres Minor (red): Origin; interior spine of scapula , insertion; greater tubercle of humerus.  Rotates humerus towards back.
Also shown, Teres Major (blue): Origin; Lowest corner of scapula (inferior angle), insertion; just below head of humerus. Allows for forward rotation of humerus, also aids bringing arm down from raised position.

















Friday, October 9, 2015

Animal Drawing: How To Find Your Animal's Proportions

So, you're drawing an animal and it keeps looking out of proportion, what should you do? As you know, the best way to draw a figure in proportion is to use its head as a unit of measurement. If you're a human, we use our head height from the top of the skull to the chin.
Which gives us average measurements of top of head (T) to chin (Ch) to mid-rib cage or nipples (Ni) to navel (Na) to crotch (Cr) to mid thigh or above knee (Ak) to below knee -not bologna- (Bk) to above ankle (Aa) with about a half head to floor. Also described here.

Proportions of animals are a little harder to figure out because the landmarks on humans are different than on animals.  I mean, we stand on two feet, they walk on all fours etc. but one thing that is consistent with animals in general is the skeleton. With that said, if you are studying any kind of animal - human or otherwise- you need to know what's going on underneath, in both bones and muscles.  If you don't how to get started doing this or if you have used the internet to look up an animal (say a squirrel monkey) and can't find any on the animal's anatomy, use it's Latin name (Simia sciureus) and you will be more likely to find information more closely related to the animal's anatomy.

But, and this is important, CROSS REFERENCE your information! I have seen students bring in anatomy reference examples, drawn by other previous students, which are downright wrong.  Photos are best but scientific illustrations are good as well if care was taken to scan or photograph them.  If you can't find anything about your animal, look up which zoos have your animal in their collection and call or email them or their veterinarian and ask about reference material for the animal in question.  Or talk to a zoo keeper, they are pretty cool and can help you in your endeavor. and they are happy to help if they can. There is always the tried and true method of GOING TO YOUR LOCAL LIBRARY to do some research (gasp). I know a lot of librarians-they are really cool and willing to help! And lots of libraries have free WiFi...and some even have coffee shops...what more do you need?

When you finally do acquire reference of the animal's anatomy, namely in profile, measure the skull from the front/tip muzzle to the back of the head where the spine meets it. Most quadrupeds have a spine that meets the skull at the back rather than below, unlike humans.  Below is a photo of a polar bear, ursas maritimus, acquired from this site. Even this specimen, as beautifully as it's been articulated, isn't exactly correct as the fore paws are too far forward for it to stand naturally, but let's move on. I, like many others, LOVE polar bears; they are so large and furry and cool and furry and chunky and furry and furry.  Did I mention furry? When you are just getting started drawing them, all that fur kinda gets in the way and you end up with weird bear shaped balloons because...furry. The skeleton has no fur so you can measure without distraction, woo! 'Had a student once who said, "I can't draw this cat because it's fluffy." Ahem, skeleton, duh.
Using a compass, ruler or Photoshop you can measure the length of the skull and compare it to the animal's body.  Humans are, on average, 7.5 heads tall. By the look of this bear, it is almost 5 heads long (4 3/4 including the skull where the skull should be) without fur so it's safe to say fur and all, it's 5 heads long with fur.
Rib cage is two heads long, which means the construction shape you'll use to describe the ribs is a 2 heads long oval.
Scapula is about half a head. Turn the head in the direction of the bone.
Humerus is a head and change so about a head.
Ulna is about a head's length, radius is typically just a bit shorter than the ulna on this, and many  animals.
Paw is just a tad more than half the head.
Distance from rib cage to pelvis is about a 1/4 head.  This is an important measurement, some animals such as tigers and lions have a full heads distance from the rib cage to the pelvis.
Distance from rib cage to pelvis is about a head.
Pelvis is about 1/2 to 2/3 head.
Femur is a head.
Fibula (yes, many of the bones of your animal are referred to the same names as your bones...sometimes)
Hind foot (which looks close to a human foot) is 3/4 head.
The width of the rib cage is about a head at its widest and the the distance to the floor from the rib cage is a head's length.
Notice, must of these measurements I have described being "about" a certain length. Just like people, no two animals are exactly the same but overall the measurements will be close, that's one of the things that makes up that animal. make note of these measurements, and stay true to them as you continue your animal drawing explorations, they will eventually help to make your animal easier to draw and make it more believable to your audience.

Okay, okay...you're right. Not everything can be measured by the skeleton.  You can also measure with a fully furred animal.  Here's a photo from this site. Aw, a big furry polar bear, awwww!
 Use its head to check the thickness of the fore paw, about half a head on this fellow.
 The thickness of the midsection is about 1 1/2 heads.
 This polar bear's neck is about 3/4 a head in thickness.
When you're talking about fur thickness and exterior information, you can use your own judgement on what you think looks best - that becomes the "art" part.  But know what the proportions (at least the measurable stuff underneath) are first before jumping into the fluffiness. Draw from the inside, out. go and draw awesome animals. have fun drawing!

Thanks for stopping by.

Friday, October 2, 2015

Cinnamon Coffee Cake

Yesterday, the students organized "Dessert Day" in class and I brought along a family recipe. I grew up calling this cake, "The Christmas Cake" as it would be served the morning of Christmas day and it was completely acceptable to gorge yourself as it was a special treat (amazing considering even sugar cereals were frowned upon at the Jackson household of my youth).

I had a hankering for it (I mean, it's been ten months) so I pulled out Mom's recipe and baked up TWO cakes for my three classes. Seemed everyone loved it and it was a nice change from Antichrist Brownies (don't worry those will appear at end of semester).
Here is the recipe for "Jeff's Mom's Christmas (or anytime) Cinnamon Coffee Cake":

1 pkg white or yellow cake mix
1 pkg vanilla instant pudding
4 eggs
8oz sour cream
1/2  cup oil (vegetable not SAE)
3/4 cup sugar
3 tbsp cinnamon
There is a version that includes nuts but I am not found of nuts in my cake so I'll have to add that later.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Mix cake mix, pudding, eggs, sour cream, and oil for 10 minutes on low speed.

Mix sugar and cinnamon and set aside.

Pour 1/2 of batter into buttered or cooking sprayed bunt pan.
Sprinkle 1/3 of sugar/cinnamon mixture on top of batter. Draw a knife through the mix to give marbelized look.
Top with remaining batter.
Sprinkle another 1/3 of cinnamon on top of batter and draw knife through again.
Top batter with remaining cinnamon.

Bake for 1 hour.
Allow to cool slightly and remove from pan, cut into slices and gorge! Be sure to leave descreetly before anyone else arrives to make you clean up the sugar cinnamon mess you left behind.
Cake serves one or an entire classroom, whichever.

Happy caking, and thanks for stopping by.

Friday, August 28, 2015

How To Make Your Own (inexpensive) Light Box

When learning animation, the best idea is to learn the basics traditionally and then work into digital media even though, lately, many consider traditional a "dead" art form. to that I have to say SHUT UP! There is lots of room for traditional and digital animation. look at these links, Mr. Bad Attitude.  Despite this, one thing is completely obvious, YOU GOTTA LEARN THE OLD SCHOOL WAY BEFORE YOU JOG OFF INTO THE DIGITAL REALM. Why I - I - I'm getting off the subject.
Where was I? Oh yes, light boxes.
Anyway, if you've got the cash, I'd recommend the Artograph LightTracer Light Box available in many online stores. It's a great portable light box and the 18" x 12" size is perfect for your animating needs but retails for $89.99.  There is an Artograph LightTracer that is 10X12" $44.09 at this writing. But I think it's too small for standard 12 field animation paper.  It's hard to find these in stores so you'll have to order them online but then there's shipping and all that implies.

As an alternative,  may I suggest checking out your local hardware store, they might have everything you need to make your own light box for a much lower cost with no buying or cutting of wood necessary . These are the supplies you need below:
1) A "Really Useful Box" (That's it's name really) 11 liter clear box. I got mine at OSH, my favorite hardward store. It's a sturdy and durable 16x14" box that has a depth of 3.5".
It has blue locking handles which hold the lid shut and a solid honeycomb molding for the bottom.  Most importantly, the lid itself is clear and flat, great for a large drawing surface.
Another feature of this box has a lip that lines the outer rim of of the lid which is prefect for placing your pencils so they don't roll away and for taping your peg bar in to.

The second item (but labeled #4...whatever) is simply a sheet of aluminum foil to act as a reflector of your light source.  You can get foil anywhere and I'm sure you have some in your kitchen somewhere, when you're not using it to wrap up your head, you can pull out a length about as long as the box and put it it in.
 No heads were wrapped in the making of this post.

Next, you'll need something like 2) a portable light socket.  The one I purchased has a 4 foot cord attached and on/off click switch. These are usually about 5 bucks.
3) Next you'll, of course, need a bulb.  Be sure to get a LED bulb so it won't over heat and melt your box. What you see here is a 7 watt TCP LED bulb. You can also get a higher wattage bulb if you'd like.
You need not drill a hole in your box, the lid can be placed over the cord and there is no noticeable pinching of it.
 With these four "ingredients", you are set to draw! Total cost is around $22, no shipping required!
5) If your work surface is too far away from an outlet or your socket cord is too short, you can purchase a cheap extension cord. You probably have one of these laying around anyway.  I remember my grandmother had like 2000 of these things, so pay a visit to a loved one and sneak one of theirs. Purchase price goes up two bucks, so we're at $24 not including tax.
6) You can get fancy with a dimmer switch.  These are expensive but after animating for a while, the dimmer comes in handy and your eyes will thank you for it. Now, we're talking $15 more so it may be getting into a "just buy a light box from above" kind of price range but again, the choice is yours.
But once you get set up, you can start animating!  The light works well for seeing through your paper and rolling/flipping.

Though the box is functional, it's still a box...and not very ergonomic.
To fix this you'll need to raise the back of your box up.  You can sit with the front portion resting in your lap and the back on the table in front of you (not so great for your neck and back over time) or you can simply take some of the awesome animation books you have amassed and just put them behind your box as shown below. Add book to achieve the height that's comfortable.  This works two ways; your box is raised and you can get inspired by keeping your favorite books nearby.
When you're done, you simply clean up and place everything in your box to carry off.  That's right, the 3.5" depth allows you to place a full ream of animation paper, your bulb, cords, pencils, erasers and even the spare change you saved buying this set RIGHT BACK IN THE BOX!! Now that's a Really Useful Box!

 Now go get animating, and thanks for stopping by!